Discuss 1 comment

Read

Getting Started with Vintage Watches

written by A.Morgan - 27th Apr 2011

For some, the appeal of a new watch is beyond temptation. The unmarked steel, the crystal polished to perfection, the pleasure of having the most up-to-date model that money can buy. But for others, it is just the beginning. The allure of ‘new’ begins to fade, and a fresh itch kicks in. A world of classic shapes, domed crystals, real, genuine history – the wardrobe of modern watches opens up into a veritable Narnia of the vintage – and the pitfalls that go with it.

Model numbers, specifications and variations are confusing enough with a manufacturer’s current range let alone with vintage watches, which moves it up to another level. A quick peek will reveal a fascination for features, a delight for details, and a taste for transitionals.

So if you have the patience required to find a good ‘un and the warmth of an acrylic crystal calls to you, you know that it is only a matter of time before the urge to go vintage becomes too strong. In light of this, we’ve put together a few pointers to get you started on your hunt, thanks to the wealth of knowledge and experience from a certain Mr. Paul Maudsley, Bonhams’ International Watch Director:

TWM: Firstly; do I need a cavernous wallet to enter the world of vintage watches?

PM: Not at all, we auction vintage watches from brands such Omega, Longines and Rolex for between £500 and a £1000. So most wallets are covered.

TWM: So where is a good place to start getting ideas?

PM: Either visiting our auction viewing days, where you get to see a whole cross section of watches, or using the internet – it is a fantastic resource for seeing what is popular and pricing.

TWM: Anything obvious to avoid?

PM: Always buy what you like, but research before you do. Don’t buy a watch you don’t like because someone tells you it’s an investment.

TWM: I’ve now decided upon a specific model I like the look and history of. How should I go about finding a good example?

PM: Again, the auction houses are a good place and between us all we have many sales with thousands of watches being sold each year.

TWM: Can I use eBay?

PM: eBay can be a very good place to buy and sell, but to a lot of collectors, it’s nice to be able to actually hold the watch, to look in detail; this can’t be done on eBay.

TWM: I can’t afford a mint example; what should I look out for when buying something obviously used?

PM: Most watches can be restored or cases polished to bring back up to original condition. The most important factor on watches is the condition and originality of the dial – this affects the values and collectability dramatically.

TWM: What about watches with newer replacement parts?

PM: This is a harder area to be certain on; watch movements can have upwards of 300 parts and it’s often hard to tell if any have been changed, unless you’re a watchmaker.

TWM: Do I need all the boxes and papers?

PM: These do make a difference to collectors, and the original papers are the most important part; boxes can be found more easily but the papers are unique to the watch, often with the case and movement numbers and chronometer rating certificates, so yes these do matter.

TWM: I’ve bought one and I’m happy with it – how should I look after it?

PM: Watches really don’t need a lot of looking after – obviously don’t throw them around, but if it’s a complicated perpetual calendar which needs all its calendars setting, then a watch winding box will be a good investment, as it needs to continually run. If you swim a lot with a watch either in a pool or the sea, then it’s wise to wash off with warm water afterwards. Every four years a full movement service is beneficial. A watch is like a car engine; it has mechanical moving metal parts so oiling is essential.

TWM: I’ve bought thirteen more watches – is there a cure for this vintage addiction?

PM: I don’t know of any cure – the best thing to do is buy another watch!

With so much information at hand via the internet, and with people as dedicated and enthusiastic as Paul, there is no real reason to shy away from the vintage world. Bargains can be had if bought carefully, and the hunt evolves to become part of the experience. Being an expert in his field, we prodded further to find out what makes Paul tick (ho ho!)…


TWM: Do you remember when you first realised you loved watches?

PM: When I was around 13 years old, my Grandmother gave me a Gruen Curvex from the 1940’s – from that moment I was hooked.

TWM: What has been the most surprising watch auction you’ve seen?

PM: I’ve undertaken so many, with some amazing prices been paid, but it’s often about the history of some watches that I find fascinating. An example was a wonderful pocket watch from around 1670 by Henry Archer, an amazing survivor and an eminent maker of the period.

TWM: Is there a classic watch that you, for whatever reason, really don’t like?

PM: There are many watches I don’t like, some for aesthetic reasons, but it is a very personnel thing and you should always buy what you like.

TWM: Could you sum up how you feel about vintage watches in one quick sentence?

PM: We look at our watches many, many times a day; taking joy in seeing a wonderful vintage watch each time is the best feeling.

With thanks to Paul Maudsley. Paul is the International Watch Director for Bonhams, and has worked with them to find and sell some fantastic and rare pieces over the last thirteen years. If you would like some more information, you can contact him at watches@bonhams.com.