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Tested: Omega PloProf 1200

written by A.Morgan - 16th Jan 2012

Omega’s 1970’s PloProf always played second fiddle to the Rolex Sea-Dweller – fast-forward more than four decades and it’s back for round two

You may be forgiven for thinking that the mighty Sea-Dweller single-handedly conquered the deep seas (as Rolex would have you believe), but following hot on its heels were a number of other worthy candidates; chief of which was the Omega Seamaster 600 Plongeur Professional. Tasked with the same brief as the Rolex engineers, Omega wanted to develop a watch that could withstand the mammoth pressures that deep sea diving would exert upon it, as well as solving the troublesome issue of decompression, which caused many a watch crystal to pop off.

One goal, two very different directions – where Rolex pursued technological solutions, Omega’s stance was that of brute force, creating a slab-sided monstrosity that hulked the not exactly delicate proportions of the Sea-Dweller into visual submission. So the story goes that the PloProf was too expensive for hobby divers and too late for serious commercial use, and so that chapter of Omega’s story was closed, only to linger in the memories of nostalgic watch collectors and people looking to put on a bit of muscle mass on their watch arm.

The PloProf 600’s apparent failure must have stuck in the back of Omega’s minds like a deep splinter, sore and niggling, because despite more than a forty year gap they’ve decided to try again. With over double the water resistance of the older version, the PloProf 1200 boasts a helium escape valve (or should that be begrudgingly includes a helium escape valve, as the original didn’t have one, which was part of the reason why it lost out to the Sea-Dweller) to cope with the extra pressure. The fact that the Rolex Deepsea can plunge all the way down to 3,900 metres makes it all semantics anyway, as it is unlikely that anyone will ever use either watch to their full capacity.

So what does Omega bring to the table to tempt buyers this time around? It’s not enough just to rely on heritage, especially as it was one of the many runners up, nor is a larger depth rating going to impress anyone when there are watches being made with nearly ten times that capability. So what then?

The answer lies not now, but forty years ago. It was never a two-horse race to become the world’s number one deep sea dive watch; in fact there were a few other watches that were technically better than either the PloProf or the Sea-Dweller, yet, alongside the Rolex, it’s the Omega that’s remembered. And why is that? The way it looks.

Rolex are guiltier than most of being fairly predictable and ‘safe’ with their designs, and it’s the same reason why we don’t really remember the other deep sea contenders – they all looked ordinary, mundane, forgettable. The PloProf on the other hand was big, angular, futuristic, built for a purpose. Despite its shaky start and inherent flaws, it still amassed a following over the years, just because of its sheer lunacy. And that’s why we see it again today.

This 1200 isn’t any half-baked parts-bin special edition either, this is a the real deal; there is some of the best build quality and finest engineering ever seen on an Omega in this watch, and it really does the design proud. Chamfered sapphire crystal with luminescent numbers bright enough to sear retinas make up the bezel insert, which is mounted to an elaborately machined and finished bezel that turns with the kind of solid thunk you’d expect from a submarine door. The crown guard now takes up the entire end of the crown, and slots perfectly into the case with aerospace precision (and is also possible to screw back in with one hand unlike the fiddly original), but the best feature has to be the clasp, that clicks and slides and folds to extend and collapse, putting the much-lauded Rolex Deepsea clasp to shame. As a whole the watch feels good, and it even wears surprisingly comfortably too.

The appearance remains faithful to the original, with the odd tweak and lift to bring it into the 21st Century. It’s still as ugly as sin, yet somehow, as ever, its ugliness is what makes it so attractive. Like the harsh angles of a Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk stealth aircraft, its visual impact is what makes you take notice and stops you looking away again. You can’t help but stare.

Technically, it’s a two-nil loss for Omega, because twice Rolex have beaten them at depth rating, and twice Rolex have beaten them with sales. The PloProf, unfortunately, will probably never be a popular watch to the masses like the Deepsea is, but for me it’s like this – hand over the keys to a Porsche 911 and a Lamborghini Gallardo, and it won’t be the technically better car that I’ll be taking, no sir.