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Rolex Submariner

Posted 27th Apr 2011

The development of the Submariner – perhaps the most recognisable watch in history – started long before its release in 1953. Twenty-seven years earlier, a young swimmer names Mercedes Gleitz swam the English Channel with the first ever waterproof watch hanging from a cord around her neck. It was the ‘Oyster,’ a case sealed with a screw down case back, a tight-fitting sealed crystal, and a double-sealed screw-down crown. Rolex dealers would advertise the Oyster watches by submerging them in fish tanks in their shop windows, which made them an immediate success.

The Oyster case had been developed from early pocket-to-wrist watch conversions, which had little more protection than a snap-shut hinged door over its movement. Hans Wilsdorf, father of Rolex, recognised this flaw, and, taking inspiration from jar lids, created a watch that sat inside a sealed case whose front section would completely unscrew to reveal the crown. This ‘Hermetic’ watch was the inspiration for the watch that Mercedes swam with, using the same principles to seal it from the water.

A further development that helped make the Submariner legendary was that of the perpetual movement. The screw-down sealed crown was frustrating to undo to manually wind the movement, and frequent usage wore the rubber gaskets down, so Rolex, using unsuccessful developments from other manufacturers, invented a self-winding system that used a 360° oscillating weight that spun with the wearer’s wrist movement.

The oft-copied rotating bezel was pioneered on the Rolex Turn-o-graph; another feature that also made it to the Submariner.

By 1953, all the components were available to Rolex to make the perfect diving watch. The legendary Jacques Cousteau helped to test the prototypes, and can be seen wearing one in ‘The Silent World,’ the Academy Award winning documentary about the Mediterranean Sea.

The Submariner was a revelation. Water-resistant to 100 metres, it was clear to read, solidly built and classically styled. The bracelet included a divers extensions too, which allowed the watch be adjusted for use over a wetsuit without the need for tools. To the untrained eye, the Submariner has all but stayed the same since its inception – as they say; if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Subtle changes were made over the years, such as the inclusion of a date window, the COSC certification of the movement, and slight dial changes to keep it looking fresh, but overall, the DNA has remained the same. The most significant changes have been done very recently, with the green-bezeled ‘Lunette Verde’ edition released before the major update in 2010, which consisted of a larger case, ceramic bezel, updated movement and refined bracelet and clasp. These updates bring the Submariner into the 21st Century, living up to the rugged tool watch attitude that it was born of in the first place. It is a classic watch that is an amalgamation of the innovation that Hans Wilsdorf introduced into Rolex during his time, and pretty much represents as close to all round horological perfection as is practically possible.